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Activity: Ask and Answer
Points: 10 points participatioon
Dates: NOW until Thursday, July 1 at 22:00 PDT.
Details: Since this is a photography club and we have members of all skill levels, for this activity, you're going to have the opportunity to ask or answer photography questions you've always wondered!
FOR QUESTIONS: Be sure that it is a question of substance. Asking, "What's a camera?" will not get you points, but asking something of more substance, such as "What is the rule of thirds?" or "What's the difference between digital cameras and film cameras," will count towards points. If you are only planning on asking questions, you must ask THREE questions to get participation points.
FOR ANSWERS: If you know the answer to a question you see, feel free to respond! In order to get participation points, you must answer one question with at least five, complete sentences. It is encouraged that you post an example of what you're talking about, to make your answer totally clear.
Of course, feel free to go beyond the minimum! You may ask more than three questions or answer more than one, or any combination thereof.
If you have any questions for me, please respond to the thread below!
Shoot things, legally! Join The Shutterbug Society today!
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:12 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-06-21 06:07 pm (UTC)(no subject)
From:no subject
Date: 2010-06-20 11:13 pm (UTC)Seen it in "shortbus" but don't really understand how it works.
Anyone?
xD
alyshia//ravenclaw
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Date: 2010-06-21 01:49 am (UTC)(no subject)
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From:HOLY LINK TO EXAMPLE, BATMAN!
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:22 pm (UTC)Elisabeth/Slytherin
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:41 pm (UTC)Of course, if you have a point and click camera that can't play around with settings much, a good flash is a good idea, but flashes only have a limited range. It's better if you can tweak your camera's settings for a longer exposure time. For film shooters, using film with a higher ISO is helpful, too.
Lena//Ravenclaw
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:31 pm (UTC)Olga//Puff
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:39 pm (UTC)Basically you just visualize a graph similar to this (http://photoinf.com/Golden_Mean/Michael_Fodor/Photo_School_-_Rule_of_Thirds/ruleofthirds.jpg) over your composition and make sure that the subject is placed along the lines or intersections!
Some good examples (with the graph on the photo!)
- one (http://z.about.com/d/photography/1/0/g/-/-/-/rainbow.jpg)
- two (http://photohub.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/rule-of-thirds.jpg)
- three (http://www.secondpicture.com/tutorials/photography/rule_of_thirds.jpg)
- four (http://thinkdan.ca/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/eagle.jpg)
It can be frustrating at first and AS ALWAYS with rules, there are exceptions. Just experiment!
Nadine//Claw
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:33 pm (UTC)Lena//Ravenclaw
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:47 pm (UTC)Nadine//Claw
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:34 pm (UTC)Lena//Ravenclaw
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:49 pm (UTC)Nadine//Claw
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:34 pm (UTC)Lena//Ravenclaw
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:53 pm (UTC)A point and shoot is like driving an automatic car. An SLR is like driving a manual car. With the point and shoot, there isn't much you can do settings wise, its exactly what the name suggests - a point and shoot. Some point and shoots have macro settings etc. so you can get great close ups, and SOME of the higher end point and shoots (such as the Canon Powershots) have complete manual capabilities like an SLR where you can set your shutterspeed, aperture etc.
An SLR gives you complete control over how you want to set your photo up. There are automatic settings like on a point and shoot, but there are additiona settings on top of that. Full manual where you control everything, there is a setting where you set the aperture and the camera sets the shutterspeed and vice versa etc.
Nadine//Claw
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:44 pm (UTC)Claire//Hufflepuff
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Date: 2010-06-21 12:01 am (UTC)With digital camera you have a higher chance of getting a better result since you can see what you're doing and there are fewwer variables to control.
Film has a different look to it completely, it's harder to manage and if you don't print the photos yourself then more often than not, photo labs don't do too great of a job D:
Neither one is better at anything than the other, they can easily achieve the same results etc. and when it comes to editing, that really boils down to how talented the person is at retouching. I mean, you can edit film photos the same way you edit digital because yuo can simply scan negatives into the computer using a fancy schmancy negative scanner.
At the end of the day, it all comes down to preference and the person. It doesn't matter what medium you use nor what camera - it's all about the artist/photographer, not the equipment!
Nadine//Claw
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From:no subject
Date: 2010-06-20 11:44 pm (UTC)How do you get that fancy schmancy infared prettiness on your photos? This is more of me being curious than anything, lol :)
Olga//Puff
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Date: 2010-06-21 02:40 am (UTC)Digital infrared photography is quite the process, lol. In a nutshell, you need a DSLR (a point and shoot doesn't have the capabilities needed for infrared photography), an infrared filter for your lens, and a camera that can take a custom white balance.
Essentially, you put on the filter (which is a dark, dark opaque reddish filter) and "measure" the white balance of something green, which sets green as white. Then, you take the filter off, compose your shot, and then put the filter back on. It requires a really long shutter speed, which is how you get whooshy cloudes (like this (http://kalbaxecnailla.deviantart.com/gallery/#/d1hvtsw)) or smooth water (like this (http://kalbaxecnailla.deviantart.com/gallery/#/d10zo56)) because you have to get enough light into the camera.
Then there are a lot of digital processes you have to do, because after you actually TAKE the photo, it's going to come out looking really drab and stupid, so you have to do a bunch of Photoshop magic to get it to look white and full.
If you're REALLY curious, here is a tutorial I wrote about it: HERE (http://kalbaxecnailla.deviantart.com/gallery/#/d112h6j)
Kaitlin | Ravenclaw
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:45 pm (UTC)Claire//Hufflepuff
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Date: 2010-06-20 11:47 pm (UTC)Claire//Hufflepuff
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Date: 2010-06-21 02:10 am (UTC)- Madelyn / Slytherin
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Date: 2010-06-21 12:21 am (UTC)Katey//Hufflepuff//1
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Date: 2010-06-21 01:31 am (UTC)Here's an old article when it was first invented: Link Here (http://blog.modernmechanix.com/mags/PopularScience/4-1947/polaroid.jpg)
Olivia//Gryffindor
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Date: 2010-06-21 12:22 am (UTC)Katey//Hufflepuff//2
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Date: 2010-06-21 02:04 am (UTC)However, a less quality lens, a hand-held shot, a point-and-shoot, lo light, etc can mean a good image may have 12 million and a poor may only have 1 million "good" pixels. And pixel isn't really the right word for film, so think of it more as "spot of image".
Also, most people can only see about 9million pixels in a 100% print, so unless an image is blown up a lot, a 10mp digital will give you as good a 4x6 print as a top of the line 35mm would, all other things (such as abiliy of the photographer, quality of lens, light, etc) being the same.
- Madelyn / Slytherin
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Date: 2010-06-21 12:22 am (UTC)Katey//Hufflepuff//3
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Date: 2010-06-21 03:28 am (UTC)Some "toy" cameras let in light which can effect the color.
In digital cameras, a lot of cameras have chromatic aberrations, which will often be noted in online reviews of them.
I don't think there's really much to compare here. Sorry. :(
- Madelyn / Slytherin
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Date: 2010-06-21 02:07 am (UTC)Sarah//Gryffindor
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Date: 2010-06-21 02:35 am (UTC)There's so much to it, though -- can you describe what kinds of shots you're trying to take (portraits, snaps, group shots, etc.) and what challenges you're having?
- Madelyn / Slytherin
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Date: 2010-06-21 03:22 am (UTC)Summer//Hufflepuff
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Date: 2010-06-21 04:04 am (UTC)Of course, a point and shoot does have its drawbacks; you do have a lot less control than you do with a DSLR, but it REALLY depends on the camera you get. The point-and-shoot I just bought my mum, for example, has full aperture, ISO and shutter speed control. Definitely not as good as a DSLR, but DEFINITELY better than a lot of point and shoots.
Really, it comes down to knowing your camera and knowing the rules of photography. If you hand a seasoned photographer a point and shoot, they'll still be able to get quality photos out of it, because when it comes down to it, it's the photographer, not the camera. Yeah, there are certain things you can't do with a point and shoot at all (for example, I primarily work in Digital Infrared Photography these days, and that's impossible on a point and shoot), but in general, ESPECIALLY with today's technology, you can get very quality photos.
What I'd suggest is pick up some photo books or look at websites. Learn about composition and then read the manual for your camera several times. Learn to love it, get close to it, sleep with it under your pillow, you get the idea. Learn deeply about aperture, ISO, and other functions that your camera might have. You'd be surprised what difference this can make in your photos.
What you might notice is less range in your photos; I mean that sometimes, the exposure or the colours won't be as strong. This is because the size of the sensor in a point and shoot (the thing that measures exposure) isn't very large, so you might notice that your whites might be TOO white (blown-out) or your shadows might be compressed and lose detail. This is something that is the major problem with point and shoots, but there are ways to get around it.
tl;dr you TOTALLY can, just learn about your camera!
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From:no subject
Date: 2010-06-21 03:25 am (UTC)Summer//Hufflepuff
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Date: 2010-06-21 04:08 am (UTC)2) LIGHT. Light is absolutely essential to makeup photography, especially if you're using a point-and-shoot. Lighting your face up close with a spot-type light will help the camera focus on the details and will make the makeup look brighter.
3) If your camera can change ISO settings, take it off Auto and bring it down to the lowest ISO possible. This will make your skin look smoother instead of grainy.
4) Sometimes, the "auto" White Balance will make the photo look very red, especially under incandescent lights. Try using an indoor setting or incandescent setting (they'll probably look like a little house, or like a lightbulb) to make the photo a little cooler and the colours more true.
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From:no subject
Date: 2010-06-21 03:27 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-06-21 03:32 am (UTC)*I* picked the Canon because when I held them both and tried them out, it felt more natural in my hand. Most of my friends who shoot one or the other say pretty much the same thing.
So, if you're ready for an SLR, go to a good store and ask them to let you try them both out.
- Madelyn / Slytherin
PS: Ooh, you're local to me, right? Go to Pictureline. Seriously. That place rocks. No I don't work there. (I live near it though.)
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Date: 2010-06-21 03:45 am (UTC)I just bought Aperture 3 and have yet to play with it.
Sarah//Gryffindor
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Date: 2010-06-21 08:48 am (UTC)If it's for a standard shoot, it depends on what kind it is. If it's a fashion shoot, generally A LOT of editing goes into it. If it's a wedding... I tend to try to avoid editing as much as possible.
At the end of the day it's always good to pretend like you can't edit the photo and try to capture it as close to what you want as possible.
Nadine//Claw
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Date: 2010-06-21 08:51 am (UTC)For normal photoshoots, I can take anywhere up to 500+ photos and end up with 10-30 decent photos that I am really pleased with. I take A LOT of photos because I like to cover all bases being the insane perfectionist that I am.
Nadine//Claw
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Date: 2010-06-21 03:57 pm (UTC)1) Latitude. Film has better latitude than digital, meaning that you can capture a better exposure than you can with most digital cameras (this doesn't go for full-frame sensor monsters, but, that's a different story). So, say you're shooting a scene with a dark foreground and a bright background; you have a better chance of getting a proper exposure with film than with digital.
2) Colour. Colour is usually MUCH stronger on film than on digital, though with editing and camera settings (on my camera, I can boost things like sharpness and saturation easily), you can achieve a "film" type look on a digital camera. It also depends on the camera you're using.
3) Ease of use. Digital is just far easier. The reason I've never shot film is because well, in the digital age, it's inconvenient. I like having my photos in files rather than photos, editing them however I want, not having to pay for film, not having to develop, etc.
There are drawbacks to digital, but there are also drawbacks to film. I prefer digital, but I know there are people who definitely prefer the look of film, but really, I think they're pretty comparable.
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Date: 2010-06-21 01:02 pm (UTC)Peyton/Ravenclaw
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Date: 2010-06-21 05:50 pm (UTC)If you're using a (modern) point and shoot, there will probably be a setting called "backlight". Try that, and if that doesn't help the situation, try the "fireworks", "beach & snow" options, as these are all set for ~odd lighting situations.
If you have a dslr, you'll have greater control over your speed and aperture settings (though if your point and shoot is good then you can use these methods too!). Because you have plenty of light, the aperture needs to be low. No more than 2, if possible. Because your subjects are moving fast, the shutter speed needs to be quick. 1/60 of a second can often work well, depending on the circumstances. A balance needs to be found between keeping the aperture low enough so the lens isn't overwhelmed with light, and keeping the shutter speed fast enough to avoid blurry subjects, but not so fast that no light gets in at all.
Does that make sense?
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Date: 2010-06-21 01:04 pm (UTC)Peyton/Ravenclaw
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Date: 2010-06-21 08:57 pm (UTC)I hope this was worth reading. Heh.
Lauren//Hufflepuff.
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Date: 2010-06-21 01:25 pm (UTC)Peyton/Ravenclaw
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Date: 2010-06-21 08:49 pm (UTC)The problem you're probably having is over-exposure. The beach is a great place for this to happen, because you have the bright sun, the bright side, the sunlight glinting off the water... yeah, there is a lot of light and it's all going to mess up your photo. Especially if you're using a smaller point-and-shoot with a small sensor, it'll get overloaded and everything will end up washed out.
What I'd do is make sure that you take your camera OFF the auto setting. Put the ISO as low as possible so you're not getting extra light sensitivity, and if you can, increase the aperture (if your camera can do this). This will also reduce the amount of light coming into the camera.
A lot of time, point-and-shoots in auto mode will get washed out at a sunny day when there's a lot of the light coming in and a light of "bright" parts in the frame.